As an experienced tailor who has worked with all kinds of fabrics and seams over the years, I have developed a nuanced perspective on when and why to use a serger. A serger, also known as an overlock machine, has some clear advantages when finishing seams and edges, especially for knit and stretch fabrics. The overlock stitch created by a serger is simply stronger and more durable than a regular sewing machine seam. For garments and projects that will undergo a lot of wear and washing, I typically recommend serging for added reinforcement.
However, serging is not always required to produce high-quality results. The choice of whether to serge depends significantly on the project at hand. For example, some tailored garments demand very flat, crisp seams that are best achieved with traditional sewing techniques. In these cases, serging would add unwanted bulk. For many projects, I advise sewing key structural seams first on a regular machine, then finishing with serging. The serger neatly trims and binds edges in one efficient step. I also tend to serge when working with fabrics like linen that fray readily without this special finish.
In the end, the serger versus sewing machine decision depends on personal preference, desired results, and fabric characteristics. While serging has many advantages, especially for knit and stretchy fabrics, it is not absolutely essential for all projects. My advice is to consider the benefits and drawbacks of serging for each individual project. With experience, you’ll develop a good sense of when serging is the right choice for a beautifully finished garment.
What is a Serger?
A serger may look complex, but its function is actually quite straightforward. While a regular sewing machine uses one thread and needle to create a straight stitch, a serger uses multiple spools of thread, needles, and loopers to create what’s called an overlock stitch. As the serger stitches, it also trims off the edge of the fabric, encasing it in threads. This serves both a functional and decorative purpose.
The multiple threads wrapped around the fabric’s cut edge prevent it from unraveling or fraying. In addition, it gives the project a tidy, professional-looking finish. Sergers are especially adept at handling knit and stretch fabrics, creating seams with enough give to move with the fabric. The smooth seaming helps prevent issues like skipped stitches or puckering on finicky material. Sergers are operated using a foot pedal and offer various settings to adjust stitch type, width, length, and more. Overall, sergers produce strong, reinforced seams quickly and give projects a quality finish.
Key Benefits of Using a Serger
While not essential for all sewing, sergers provide some unique advantages:
The trademark serged seam creates a polished, couture look on the inside and outside of projects. The trimmed and encased edge provides a flawless finish that looks store-bought.
Strengthened Seams and Hems
The overlock stitch is exceptionally strong, with 4-8 threads wrapped around the fabric’s cut edge. This reinforcement is great for points of stress and wear like side seams, shoulders, crotch seams, and necklines. It also strengthens hems.
Knit and Stretch Fabrics
A serger seam provides enough stretch and give for knit fabrics to move freely. It helps prevent puckering, popping stitches, or wavy seams on finicky material.
Speed and Efficiency
Serging simultaneously seams and finishes edges in one step. This saves significant time, especially when sewing knits, since there is no need to sew a seam and then finish the edges separately.
No Fraying or Unraveling
Serging neatly wraps fabric edges in thread, preventing fraying issues on fabrics like silk, linen, or loose weaves prone to unraveling.
Durability and Longevity
Serged seams and hems increase garment durability with their reinforced stitches. This is especially beneficial for items that will be frequently worn and machine washed.
Ease of Use
Once threaded properly and settings are adjusted, sergers are extremely easy to use for basic overlock seaming. The process becomes second nature with practice.
Sergers are more compact in size than conventional sewing machines, an advantage for smaller spaces. Their vertical design also aids in storage.
Fabrics and Projects Perfect for Serging
While the decision depends on the specifics of each project, here are some of the most common uses for sergers in sewing and crafting:
- Knit fabrics – T-shirts, activewear, loungewear, dresses, etc.
- Stretch wovens – Leggings, swimwear, performance fabrics
- Sheers and silks – Blouses, dresses, handkerchiefs
- Linens – Pants, skirts, dresses, blazers
- Lace trims and embellishments
- Home decor items – Pillows, placemats, curtains
- Face masks and headbands
- Pajamas and underwear
- Costumes – Superhero capes, wizard robes, princess dresses
- Kids and baby clothes
Key Differences: Serger vs. Sewing Machine
To decide which tool is best for your project, it helps to understand the key differences between sergers and traditional sewing machines:
|Seaming & finishing fabric edges
|Forming structural seams and details
|Straight, zigzag, decorative stitches
|Number of Threads
|Handling Thick Fabrics
Disadvantages of Serging
While sergers have many benefits, there are a few potential drawbacks to consider:
- Expense – Sergers are an investment, costing more than basic sewing machines.
- Limited stitches – A serger only makes an overlock stitch and cannot do details like buttonholes, topstitching, or zigzag.
- Challenging needle threading – The thread loops through small eyes and discs, making it tricky.
- Learning curve – Sergers have more parts and settings to learn initially.
- Difficult with thick fabrics – Multiple layers can get jammed or break needles.
- Bulkier seam allowances – The serger seam takes up more space than a regular seam.
- No reverse function – Sergers cannot easily backstitch or pivot.
For these reasons, a serger functions best as a companion tool rather than a total replacement for a versatile sewing machine.
Tips for Deciding When to Serge
So when should you break out your serger versus using an all-purpose sewing machine? Here are some tips:
- For finicky fabrics like silks or knits, serging can prevent headaches.
- When constructing activewear and swimsuits, serged seams enhance durability and stretch.
- On projects with visible insides like lined jackets, use a serger for impeccable finishes.
- For a clean finish on casual hems, serge instead of zigzag stitching.
- When sewing items that will be frequently washed like kids’ clothes, the reinforced serged seams prevent wear and tear.
- When short on time, serging offers a fast way to seam and finish edges simultaneously.
- For flat, non-bulky seams like a perfectly pressed shirt placket, traditional seams work better.
- When sewing especially heavy fabrics like denim or leather, a serger may struggle or damage needles.
- If you need lots of fitting adjustments, serged seams are more challenging to rip out and alter.
- For topstitching and reinforcing seams from the outside, use a regular sewing machine.
Getting the Most Out of Your Serger
Below are some tips to maximize the usefulness of your serger and get the highest quality results:
- Invest time upfront learning your machine’s threading path, settings, and how to achieve balanced tension. Rushing through setup may lead to headaches down the road.
- Keep your serger well-maintained by cleaning lint buildup, oiling, replacing worn needles and blades, and consulting the manual.
- Use the recommended needles for your fabric weight – ballpoint for knits, sharp for wovens. Wrong needles can damage fabric or break.
- When possible, serge seams right after sewing for the most efficient workflow. Serging already assembled garments can get clumsy.
- Play around with decorative threads like woolly nylon in the loopers for embellished edges. Use contrasting or metallic colors for fun accents.
- Swap the standard overlock stitch for a rolled hem to finish shirt sleeves, napkins, handkerchiefs, or scarves.
- Save serger scraps to stuff pillows or as protection for shipping fragile items. Get creative with the leftovers!
Frequently Asked Questions about Sergers
Do I really need a serger?
A serger is not an essential tool, but it provides many advantages like professional-looking finishes, reinforced seams, and easy handling of knits. For sewers who make a lot of knit garments, a serger can be a worthwhile investment. But with the right sewing machine attachments and techniques, it is possible to mimic a serger’s results.
Can I sew an entire garment with just a serger?
Sergers are designed primarily for seaming and finishing, not construction. While you can assemble an entire garment on a serger, it is very challenging to do steps like setting in sleeves, installing zippers, sewing buttonholes, and topstitching details. Sergers and regular machines complement each other.
What is the learning curve for sergers?
Sergers have more parts and settings than regular machines so there is a learning curve. But starting with the basics, practicing on scraps, and using the manual will build confidence. Many users find threading the most challenging part to learn. With regular use, operating a serger becomes second nature.
What thread does a serger use?
Most sergers use all-purpose polyester or nylon threads with some stretch. Specialty threads like woolly nylon work too. Avoid 100% cotton thread as it lacks stretch. Use quality thread in the correct sizes recommended by your machine’s manual for best stitch quality.
How do I know what needles to use?
Consult your manual for the recommended needles. Use sharp needles for woven fabrics, ballpoint for knits. Choose the right size needles for your fabric weight – lighter for wovens, heavier for thick knits. Change needles frequently for best results.
Can I use my serger to sew leather, vinyl, or other heavy materials?
In general no, sergers are not well-suited for extremely thick or heavy fabrics which require more force to stitch. The needle is likely to break. Use a heavy duty sewing machine with the appropriate needle for these materials instead.
What basic serger stitches should I learn first?
Start with a balanced 4-thread overlock stitch on your serger. This will allow you to seam and finish edges in one step. A 3-thread overlock and rolled hem are also useful starter stitches to master.
How do I adjust the tension on my serger?
Start by threading your serger correctly and setting the tension dials to the manufacturer’s recommendations. Sew test samples on scraps, making small adjustments. The goal is smooth, flat seams without puckering. Refer to your manual for troubleshooting tips.
While sergers are not essential sewing tools, they offer immense advantages for finishing edges, seaming knits, reinforcing points of stress, and achieving professional-looking results. Taking the time to master your serger can elevate your sewing skills and efficiency. However, also recognize their limitations compared to versatile sewing machines. Learn when it is most useful to serge based on your project needs, fabric characteristics, and desired finishes. With experience, you will soon develop a sense for when to serge for flawless results!